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我再也不去十渡了！
（如何开发旅游资源，是当今的一个重要话题，本文作者的观点，或许能给我
们一定启发。）
我第一次去十渡是在三年以前，那正值我在中国做第一次为期六周的短期逗留。
当时，作为地处海淀的一所大学校园里的短期学生，我的内心充满了有关中国的想
法，并对此次逗留期望很大。我学习中文，想打开眼界，来了解这个幅员辽阔的国
家的诸多差异。当我在“孤星”系列导游手册的最后一页发现了十渡（上面只有火
车时刻表和几行说明）的时候，我已经游过了北京所有景点，于是我决定去十渡。
一位韩国朋友与我同行，这位朋友有着极为难得的说话习惯：只在必要时才开
口。大约早晨十点左右，我们来到了好似人间天堂的十渡。天公也真作美：在黎明
时分出现的一层富有浪漫气息的白雾将四周的山都藏匿了起来。然而，耀眼的阳光
足以使山坡的层面显现出来，并且给蜿蜒的河水披上了灿烂的色彩。我们从十渡走
到六渡，在那儿发现了这一带唯一的一家饭馆。路上我们还遇到一条蛇和几个悠闲
的渔民；这时，我们心中只存一念：脱光衣服，跳到清澈的河水里。这儿远离尘嚣，
清新自然，我们再次感受到了活力，觉得自己焕然一新。
我现在在北京工作，不久前我又去了一次十渡。去时我就想到十渡也会有所变
化，但没有想到它会不复存在。
我丈夫所在的公司组织郊游，载着我们这些外国人的小公共经过了所有的“渡”，
一直来到十渡。一个新十渡呈现在我的眼前：蹦极跳已经将此地变成了游乐场：从
大喇叭里传来刺耳的流行音乐、塑料鸭形船、游艺节目———这一切把曾经是最美
妙的地方变成了最糟糕的地方。我几乎都认不出这就是十渡了。我们没有兴冲冲加
入到这些游乐活动中，对此导游很是惊愕（他常常带中国人来这儿玩，而国内游客
喜欢这些热热闹闹的项目）：这些外国人来这儿想玩什么？十渡难道不是个找乐的
地方吗？我们刚到十渡就立即离开了，想去找个希望中的自然景点。但十渡的魅力
已被破坏，整整一天我都闷闷不乐。
中国的现代化一定要付出如此高昂的代价吗？中国大地的景色是美丽的，无论
是国内游客还是来华的外国游客，人数都在增加。保护好十渡并向公众开放肯定是
可以做到的。
作为一个法国人，我对自然保护十分敏感：法国三分之一的国土被森林覆盖，
而现在森林面积还在扩大。在山上你还能碰到狼，但这并不意味着法国不现代。我
们成功地建设了一个具有很多自然景点的国家，在那些自然环境里，我们可以缓解
现代生活所带来的压力。今天的十渡———热闹、艳丽、人造景观泛滥———就像
在市中心，仅仅是个城市公园，只是比别的公园离城远，更不容易去而已。
十渡的潜在价值已经被完全忽视了。为什么不把它变成沿着寂静的小路远足或
骑马、划皮筏艇及攀岩的地方，使城市长大的孩子们能在这里感受自然并学习野外
生存技能。为什么不让小学生们和老师在暑假来这里观察城里绝对见不到的植物和
鸟儿们呢？
人类需要呼吸新鲜的空气并在安静的地方思考。或许我更喜欢山中隐士生活那
一面的中国。有一点是肯定的，我更喜欢“野”十渡。而现在的十渡，我是再也不
会去了。
My first visit to Shidu was three years ago, during the
first of my three six-week sojourns in China. As a short-term
student on a campus in Haidian, my mind was teeming with
ideas about China, and I expected much of my stay here. I
would study Chinese and open my eyes to the multitude of
contrasts in this vast country. I had already been to all
the scenic spots in Beijing when I discovered, on the very
last page of the Lonely Planet guide, the name Shidu,
followed only by a train timetable and a few lines describing
the place. I decided to go.
A Korean friend with the precious habit of talking only
when necessary accompanied me. Around 10 in the morning we
arrived at what seemed a heaven on earth. The weather was
with us too: a melancholy mist had appeared at dawn. The
mountains were hidden and at the same time enveloped by the
cottony haze. Yet the sun shone brightly enough to reveal the
strata in the slopes and lend glitter to the meandering river.
We walked down from the tenth crossing to the sixth, where
we found the only restaurant around. On the way we met a
snake and a few idle fishermen;our one desire was to doff
our clothes and plunge naked into the clear water. Time had
no grip on this place. We felt alive again, renewed.
I now work in Beijing, and not long ago I returned to
Shidu. I went knowing that Shidu would have changed too, but
I had no inkling of its despoliation.
Bearing foreigners on an outing organized by my husband's
company, our minibus drove past all the crossings till it
came to the tenth. The new Shidu appeared before my
eyes:The bungee jumping had changed the place into a funfair.
Techno music blaring from loudspeakers, plastic duck-shaped
boats, carnival attractions -- the worst of China where once
the best of it had been. I could scarcely recognize the
place. The tour guide, used to going to Shidu with Chinese
people who expect noisy activities of this sort, was amazed
that we didn抰 rush to join in the activities on offer:What
did these foreigners come for? Isn't Shidu just another
place to have fun? We headed off as soon as we arrived,
trying to find the kind of natural setting we had hoped for.
But the spell of Shidu was broken. I felt bitter for the
rest of the day.
Does China have to pay such a high price for
modernization? The land is beautiful;tourism here, Chinese as
well as foreign, is growing. Surely it is possible to
preserve Shidu and still open it to the public.?
As a French person I am very sensitive to the
conservation of nature:France is a country where the acreage
given over to forests - even now a third of the national
area - is increasing, and where in the mountains you can
still encounter wolves. That doesn't mean France is not \"
modern\"; we have succeeded in building a country where there
are places to recover from the stress of modern life, in
natural settings. Shidu as it is today - noisy, garish,
artificial - could just as well be in the centre of Beijing.
It's just a city park a bit harder to reach than the others.
The potential of Shidu has been entirely overlooked. Why
not turn it into a place for hiking and riding horses along
quiet trails, for kayaking and rock-climbing, a place where
city-bred teenagers can encounter nature and learn to survive
in it? Why not let schoolchildren go there with their
teachers during the summer holidays, to observe plants and
birds they'll never see in the city?
Human beings need to breathe fresh air and meditate in
silence. Maybe I prefer the China of mountain hermits. It's
certain that I prefer the old \"wild\"Shidu. And no,I will
never again set foot in the ruin of nature that Shidu has
become today. |
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发表于 2005-9-24 20:03:50
