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逆流而上
Upstreaming
前不久,我乘坐“贡嘎山号”游船从湖北的宜昌到重庆,沿着长江逆流而上。
Taking the Gongga Mountain boat I cruise from Wuhan to Yichang and then to Chongqing.
中间还换乘过人力木舟,不仅体验到了峡江山色的壮美,还体验到纤夫号子的激昂和逆水行舟不进则退的险境,从而感悟到人生犹如逆流而上,贵在坚持和坚韧不拔的努力。
I am upstream on the most famous river of China, and it is the longest river in the world.Sometimes I have to take a wooden boat and row myself to experience not only the landscape and magnificence of the Three Gorges, but also the adventure of the dangerous currents, so as to realize the meaning—only by persistence and finn and indomitable effort can one achieve success.
时值秋初,天高云淡。
The early autumn day is so fine and the sky so blue, with only a few thin clouds.
导游先带领我们游览了风景秀丽、树木葱茏的下牢溪和元稹、白居易和白居易的弟弟三贤曾畅览的“三游洞”,然后游览举世瞩目的世界第一大坝——三峡大坝。
The first scenic historic park I visit is Xialaoxi, a branch stream of the Yangtze River.A green forest mountain stands up with many caves and creeks.The famous poets of the Tang Dynasty, Yuan Zhen,Bai Juyi and Bai Xingjian, Juyi’s younger brother often had parties in a big cave here, so the cave was named 'Three Learners Cave.”The cave is not very big, but has a stone table and some other blocks perhaps for chairs.The three learners must have often written many poems here in ancient times during their tea or wine parties.The second place I visit is the first dam in the world—The Three Gorges Dam.This dam is at the main stream of the Yangtze River and looks very grand and magnificent.
这座雄伟的大坝把桀骜不逊的长江拦腰斩断, 使人类千古的梦想“高峡出平湖”得以实现,也使天堑长江造福人类,发电量为葛洲坝水电站的60倍,蓄洪能力达到可以拦住百年-遇的大洪水,使长江中下游居民彻底摆脱洪水的困扰;同时,坝内水位提高后,有利于通航,使急流险滩的三峡变为平稳的通途。
Indeed for thousands years Chinese people dreamed about building such a dam to stop the great river, now the dream has come true, the furious river is stemmed.The Yangtze River has been tamed and the benefit for the people is a generating capacity sixty times more at the Gezhouba Dam Hydropower Station.The flood storage capacity at the dam can stop the biggest floods, those maybe only encountered once every 100 years, so the residents of the middle and lower parts along the Yangtze River are removed of any distress this might cause.Besides, due to the dam, the water level is heightened facilitating better navigation and making the rapids of the Three Gorges into a smooth thoroughfare.
在这里每一位参观者都为中国人征服自然的伟力感到惊叹和骄傲!
Hence every visitor feels proud and amazed by how the have Chinese conquered such a great natural power!
接着,我们所乘坐的“贡嘎山号”起航,向西陵峡挺进。
Then I take the Gongga Mountain boat again and set sail upstream to the Xiling Gorge.
西陵峡过去曾多有险滩暗礁,是船公最畏惧的峡江。
In the past, around the Xiling Gorge there were many shoals reefs, so it was the most dangerous shipping lane on the Yangtze River.
从古到解放初期,不知道有多少艄公在此触礁损命。
It is unknown how many boatmen lost their lives on these rocks.
解放后炸掉了不少暗礁疏通了险滩,但是,在冬季枯水期,这里通航仍然十分困难。
After the liberation, the Chinese blew up many reefs, which dredged the rapids and made them safer. However, in the winter seasons, the water was not deep enough for big ships and it was still very difficult for navigation.
而唯有三峡大坝建成后,水位提高到135米,使这里的航道变成了可以四季通行万吨或十万吨以上货轮,日夜通航不用愁的黄金水道。
But after the completion of Three Gorges Dam, the water level rose to 135 metres, and now one hundred thousand ton ships with cargo can navigate the great channel.The shipping lane has become a golden waterway navigable in four seasons.
导游告诉我们,今年冬季前,三峡大坝蓄水要达到设计的最高值175米,那时,长江上可以行使数十万吨巨轮,使黄金水道发挥更大的作用。发电量数倍增加,为长江两岸和华中、华南地区的工农业生产提供更强大的动力和能源。
The tour guide told me that soon, in the winter of this year, the water level of the Three Gorges Dam will reach the maximum it is designed for at 175 metres high.At that time, the Yangtze River will be able to exercise hundreds of thousands of tons of ships and the golden waterway will play an even greater role with the generating capacity increasing several times. Both sides of the Yangtze River, including Southern China and Central China will benefit from its powerful transportation and energy supply.
在导游的指点下,我们可以清晰地看到山坡上一处处醒目的175米的标记。
Under the tour guide’s advice, we can clearly see some striking 175-metre marks along the banks and hillsides.
三峡数千万人的大移民,也是根据这一水位制定的。
Around the Three Gorges, tens of millions of people had to leave their homes in a movement that was called “the great migration.”
175米以下全部迁走,如今三峡地区只留下175米以上寥寥不多的居民,他们现在的任务更多是封山造林,维护山林植被。
All people below this marker had to move away.There are a few inhabitants who still live above 175 metres, and their mission now is to maintain the closed hillsides, to facilitate forestation, and to protect forest vegetation.
那零星的房屋掩映在山峰茂密的绿林中,仿佛是丰碑,在诉说着库区人民为三峡的建设所作出的贡献,舍小家,为国家,每一位三峡人忘我的精神都值得歌颂。
Houses hide sporadically in the lush mountain greenery, as if monuments that tell visitors that the people of the Three Gorges Reservoir sacrificed and contributed a lot to the dam’s construction, and for the country ?s construction.They abandoned their small family homes for their country.Their great selfless spirit should be worth our respect.
峡江是美丽的,两岸峰峦起伏,有的绝壁如刀劈斧砍,有的犹如大象的头把长鼻伸入江中戏水:而有的秀美得宛如绿衣少女,三俩成群欢喜地手挽手,在寥远的苍天下舒卷身躯,抖动衣裙,浣洗江水,曼妙的姿色,使苍翠的层峦叠嶂更显得妖媚,风情万种。
The great river is beautiful, and the two banks are the undulating mountains. Some cliffs are so precipitous it is as if a huge axe cut them. Some are shaped like elephants stretching their trunks into the river water; and some like beautiful girls with green skirts, happily hand in hand, jittering their green dresses and washing their bodies under the remote heaven. The graceful mountains, layer upon layer of green and peaks and knolls are so charming, flirtatious and magnificent.
“贡嘎山号”在汤汤的波涛中破浪前进,而两旁急速退去的连绵的山影使劈开的波涛显得汹涌,我们就在波谷之中飞驶。
The Gongga Mountain boat ploughs through the waves of the rushing current.I feel the hills on both sides retreating backwards rapidly.
偶尔前方有绝壁迎面堵住去路,像是到了尽头,然而峰回路转,别有洞天,一条宽阔的峡江扑面而来,滔滔的江水延绵不绝,仿佛连通天际。
Occasionally, in front of a cliff there seems to be block in our path, the end of our water world.But approaching, I find that the lane winds along the mountain ridges.After the sharp turns I find that the scenery hidden behind the cliff is more beautiful and there is a broader channel in front of us.The surging river seems endless and I find it connects to the sky.
峡谷的风猎猎地抖动着船上的旗帜,站在船头,感觉到山谷强风的威力,透心凉啊!仿佛是钻进了大浪的腹中,被那冷冽的水兜头浇下来,顿时心中一紧,浑身的皮肤起了疙瘩,但很快就适应了这一温度,感觉到无比的爽快!
The canyon wind, whistling, makes the ship’s flag shake.I stand on the stem and face the strong valley wind. Cool, as if I am in the center of the sea, as if a barrel of cold water has been poured over my head.Suddenly my heart becomes tight, and I am covered in goose bumps, but I quickly adapt to the temperature and feel fresh and very good!
情感释然,陶然忘记在壮美的山川水色之中。
My tension is relieved and I am intoxicated and carefree in the magnificent mountain scenery.
姊归到了。
Zigui, a famous village is soon near.
这里是爱国诗人屈原姐姐的居住地。
Here was the home of the elder sister of the great patriotic poet Qu Yuan.
传说,屈原投汨罗江后, 一条大鱼驮着屈原的尸体逆江而上,送到屈原姐姐居住的地方。
Legend says that Qu Yuan jumped into the Miluo River to commit suicide.Soon a large fish with the body of Qu Yuan swam up the river and went to Qu Yuan sister's place of residence.
屈原的姐姐满含泪水,迎接屈原的归来,因此,此地被称作姊归。
Qu Yuan's sister sobbed with tears upon meeting Qu YuarTs returned body.The village became called Zigui,meaning sister’s return.
屈原的爱国情怀,令天地动容,流传千古。
Qu Yuan's patriotic feelings were strong enough to make heaven and earth move and so the story passed down through the ages.
他偏爱的橙橘,也是这里的特产,黄澄澄地坠满树,香飘百里。此地还有桃花溪,在桃花盛开的季节,满溪漂着落英缤纷的桃花。
Some orange trees planted by Qu Yuan are now always full of the fruit on every branch. These products are the local specialty.Many orange trees are planted along the riverbank, along with many peach trees. The guide told me that in peach blossom season, the brook drifts with the fallen petals of peach flowers profusely.
可惜,这一景观由于季节不对没有见到。
Unfortunately, I cannot see this splendid landscape due to it not being spring.
船到了巴东靠了岸。夜泊巴东,伴着涛声而眠。
The boat arrives on the shore at Badong, where I stay and sleep on the boat listening to the waves.
第二天一早,先是换乘较小一点儿的汽船前往神农溪。
The next day in the very early morning, the guide transfers us to a smaller steamboat and onto the Shennong stream.
河水骤清,两岸却也不乏奇峰峻岭,更有悬棺崖洞。
The stream soon becomes clear and the banks full of grotesque and fantastic cliffs of various shapes. The more surprising interest is the coffin suspended in midair. In fact the coffin was put on a high cliff crack, where it seems that no human could have put it because the cliff is so very high and vertical.
巴东的土家族过去丧葬的风俗是把先人骨殖葬得越高就意味着恩泽后人越多,甚至带来高官厚禄。
The local people of Tujia keep funeral customs where they manage to put their ancestral skeletons or coffins high on the cliff,so that the descendants will benefit, will become officers with a high position and handsome salary.
两岸还有猴子,属藏猕猴系列,在采实累累的野果树上悠闲地采食,这里成了猴子的天堂。
I also find that along the two banks there are many Tibetan macaque monkeys leisurely eating the fruit of the wild woods.
偶有猴鸣,但不是让人“泪沾裳”的凄苦猿声。
Occasionally some monkey screech, but the sound is not like how the ancient famous traveler Xu Xiake described: “could make me tear from their sorrowful sticky song.”
两岸的绿坡上盛产大熊猫喜吃的绵竹,竹叶婆娑,碧绿如烟,令人赏心悦目。
Soon I find the both sides of the green slopes full of tender bamboo, which the giant pandas love best. The leaves of bamboo are rattling and dancing in the breeze.
汽船到了一处码头后,我们一行游人分乘7只小木船,靠人力划桨,向峡溪深处摇去。
The steamboat reaches a dock, and all the visitors, including me have to change into some small boats on which boatmen use a paddle or long pole to manoeuvre, putting the pole deep into the stream to push the boat forward.The boat travels swiftly across the surface of the water.
桨声欸乃,水清见底,仿佛回到了古时凭一叶扁舟纵情山水之间的李杜时代。“朝辞白帝彩云间,千里江陵一日还。两岸猿声啼不住,轻舟已过万重山”——表达了李白多么欢快的心情啊!
The sounds of the paddle seem like music and the stream is so clear that I can see the bottom of the river. I imagine the boat taking me back to the time of Li Bai and the great poet indulging in the landscape and writing down the famous poem, 'i bid farewell to Baidi in the colored dawn, but my boat will cover one thousand miles to Jiangling by night-fall.Monkeys are still calling on both banks behind me, but my boat passes these ten thousand mountains away. ^ The poem expressed the cheerful mood of Li Bai!
两岸山峰陡峭,白云缥缈,溪水碧绿,水声潺潺。
The steep cliffs, the white misty clouds, the green brook, the sound of running water appear as a wonderland.
河道变窄了,水流变得急了,逆水而行,艄公十分吃力。
The river becomes narrow, and the stream flows more rapidly. Heading up-river for the boatmen is extremely difficult.
五个船工喊起了号子,“嗨蝴,嗨吻,搞个嗨呦 ~~”,划桨的速度加快,但是,船不见前进,反而倒退。就在我们捏一把汗的时候,船头的三个船工跳了下去,船尾的一位船工也跳了下i,他们拉着两条纤绳,在两岸的石砾上艰难地躬着身子向前行走,胳臂和脖颈处的青筋暴突起来, 像雕塑一般,给人以震撼。
The five boatmen call the song with the loud voice, “Hey yo, hey yo, a hi yo”. Even though they are paddling faster the boat is not moving forwards, but going backwards. All of us worry about the situation with fright. Three boatmen jump into the stream and soon the stem boatman also does.They pull the boat with two cable ropes and bend their bodies like bows with great effort to make the boat leaning forward.Their arms and neck veins bulge,like they are sculptures and the scene impresses me with a shock.
船上的舵手,用苍劲的声音喊着更激越的号子,和那四位纤夫一唱-一和,随着纤绳的绷直,木船停止了后退,向前缓慢地前进了。
The boat’s helmsman, with his vigorous voice, sings a more intense song, and the four trackers sing in chorus at a quick beat.By their great efforts, the wooden boat stops moving backwards and moves slowly forwards.
但是,水变浅了,木舟咯噔一下声响,那是船底蹭到了石头,离船尾不远处的一块船仓板开裂了,船仓进水了!船上的人恐慌了起来。
However, the stream becomes shallower, and the wooden boat thumps with a clashing sound into a stone!Soon a crack appears in the boat near the stem and the cabin fills with water!All of us on the boat panic.
可是,掌舵的船老大并不慌张,他一边用一只小木盆向外淘水,一边用衣服布条堵漏洞,一边喊号子,让纤夫们加油。
But the boatman at the helm does not panic and uses a small tub to remove the water while he loopholes the boat with clothes, all the while singing a song to encourage the trackers to move forwards harder.
大约花费了半个多小时,木船通过了最危险的一段逆流,来到了神农溪的终点。
It takes about half an hour for the wooden boat to pass through the most dangerous countercurrent before reaching to the terminal of the Shennong Creek.
大家提到嗓子眼的心,才又位归原处。此时的我感慨万端。
All of us become calm.From near our mouths our hearts return to sender.Overall the situation made me feel a multitude of feelings.
其实,人生也是如此,逆水行舟,不进则退。顺风顺水固然好,但是,在人生的旅途上,更多是逆风逆水。如果在逆境中,你就必须坚持到底。如果在那段最难走的河流中,不坚持,放弃了,就会后退,甚至船毁人亡。
The same is true of life, sailing against the current either you go forwards with great efforts, or you go backwards.It is good sailing with the wind, but in the journey of life, there are more winds against the current.When you face adversity, you must adhere to it until the end.lf you cannot adhere to it along the most difficult journey, like in the river,if you give up,either you will go backwards,or you will crash the boat.
而艄公坚忍不拔的努力和不放弃的精神,最终使我们达到一个“柳岸花明”的彼岸。只有贵在不懈的努力,你才会领略“会当凌绝顶,一览众山小”的佳境啊!
But the boatmen set a fine example, with firm and indomitable effort; they never gave up and eventually brought us to the “Willow bank with flowers blooming”.Only with unremitting efforts will you experience such Nirvana — “Standing on the peak of the great mountain,you will find other mountains become smaller in view”.
回到“贡嘎山号”船上,船继续向上流逆水而行。
Back in the Gongga Mountain boat we continue upwards against the current.
巫峡十二峰在向我招手, 神女峰朝行云暮行雨,披着彩云含情脉脉地注视着我这个逆流而上的游子。
The twelve peaks waving at me, the Goddess Peak in the cloudy evening rain line seems to silently convey her tenderness to me, watching me on my way upstream.
壮丽的雄关瞿塘峡张开双臂迎接着逆流而上的人们。
The magnificent Qutang Gorge greets those who go upstream, including me.There is a saying: “The Kui Gate is the most grand gate in the world”.
“夔门天下雄”,夔门雄姿, 俨若铁面将军雄踞隘口,刀劈斧斫壁立冲天,威风震慑魂魄。
I find that the Kui Gate is majestic, as if an iron general is guarding the pass, stand there as a towering deterrent.
但是,雄关也对逆流而上者给予崇高的敬意。
However, the Kui Gate is also paying great respect to us, to all the people who are “upstreaming”.
再向上,江面平缓,白帝城在际,奉节也敞开胸怀迎接逆流而上的勇者。
Then, the current becomes gentle, the White Emperor City appears, and then Fen^jie opens up to greet to me.
凡贵在坚持,在逆境中坚韧不拔者终将会到达胜利的彼岸……
With a firm and indomitable perseverance, facing adversity, you will eventually reach the shore. |
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